August 2024

Identifying your skin type: A guide from Dr Jonathan Kentley

In this blog post, Consultant Dermatologist, Dr. Jonathan Kentley shares his expert insights on identifying your skin type and tailoring your skincare routine for optimal results.

Why is it important to understand your skin type?

The more you understand about the type of skin you have, the easier it is to know the best way to care for it and select the correct skincare routine for your personal needs. Most skin types benefit from cleansing and often a moisturiser, and it’s recommended that everyone use a sunscreen daily, however some products may be unsuitable for certain skin types.

Skin types are mostly determined by the amount of oil (sebum) produced: this is genetically determined and cannot be changed. However, skin types may change throughout life, such as becoming more oily during puberty and drier during the menopause, so it is often worth reviewing skincare needs from time to time. Skin may also have different needs in different environments, and skincare routines may need to be reassessed when on holiday, for example.

Oily skin

Oily skin produces excess sebum and can feel shiny or greasy, especially towards the end of the day. People with oily skin may be prone to developing acne, blemishes, enlarged pores and blackheads.

Ingredients to look out for in oily skin are salicylic acid (which is lipid soluble and able to break through excess sebum) and retinoids which reduce the amount of sebum produced. Benzoyl peroxide may also be helpful in blemish-prone skin. Using a lighter moisturiser such as a gel or lotion is usually preferable to thicker formulations and definitely look out for non-comedogenic oil/free moisturisers.

Of course, if you are struggling to manage acne you should always see a dermatologist for a full assessment and consideration of prescription treatments.

Dry skin

Dry skin tends to produce less sebum and can often feel dry, tight or flaky.

Generally, dry skin requires additional moisture than the other skin types, and people may need to moisturise several times per day. A gentle hydrating cleanser should be used, and ingredients to look out for in a moisturiser include humectants such as hyaluronic acid, urea and glycerine as well as emollients and ceramides. Thicker, and even occlusive, formulations may sometimes be needed particularly during winter.

Caution should be used with drying ingredients such as alcohol, AHAs and retinoids. Whilst they may be tolerated they should be introduced slowly, starting a couple of days per week, and step-by-step, introducing a new ingredient a few weeks after your skin has adapted to the last. Avoiding long, hot showers and even using humidifiers in the home may help reduce water loss through the skin.

“Normal” skin

So-called “normal” skin does not have any features of the other skin types and is mostly clear and not sensitive. Whilst very few people have truly “normal” skin for their whole life, most active ingredients can be used depending on your personal skincare goals. At a minimum, everyone should be gently cleansing at least once a day and applying a sunscreen to reduce the risk of skin cancer and accelerated aging from UV exposure.

Combination skin

With combination skin, some areas of the face may produce too much sebum (such as the forehead and nose, known as the T-zone), whilst other areas may be normal or dry.

It can sometimes be difficult to select the right products for combination skin, and different topicals may be needed for different areas. For example, salicylic acid may be needed in the T-zone, but may be too drying to use in other areas. In contrast, heavier moisturisers may be needed for dry areas whereas a lotion or gel may be better for oily areas of the face. Some products, such as a hyaluronic acid serum, Niacinamide, azelaic acid and potentially an antioxidant serum may be tolerated on the whole face. It can take some time to find the perfect skincare routine for combination skin, so be patient!

Sensitive skin

Sensitive skin, unlike the other types, is not defined by the amount of serum that is produced by the skin. People with sensitive skin may develop a burning or itching sensation after applying different products and may even develop a rash. Sensitive skin may also result from underlying dermatological problems such as rosacea or eczema.

When choosing products for sensitive skin, it is best to avoid any harsh or potentially irritating products such as hydroxy acids or retinoids. Polyhydroxyacids such as lactobionic acid are less irritating than AHAs and BHAs and are often used as exfoliants in sensitive skin as they also have moisturising properties. Less irritating alternatives can be chosen for some actives such as sodium ascorbate instead of vitamin C, and retinal instead of retinol or tretinoin (though these may be less effective). Niacinamide is also a hero ingredient for sensitive skin due to its calming effect and ability to restore the skin barrier.

In very sensitive skin, it may also be advisable to avoid products with fragrances and certain preservatives, and several skincare companies have ranges developed specifically for this skin type. If sunscreens are causing problems in sensitive areas, mineral filters such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide may be less irritating.

Sometimes it can be helpful to test a product on an area such as your forearm for a few days before applying it to the face.

Dr. Jonathan Kentley concludes with his final insights:

Navigating the ever growing world of skincare can at times be challenging and overwhelming. But making sure you stick to the basics and choose the right products for your skin type can really really pay off in the long term. Of course, if you are really struggling with your skin it is always worth consulting a healthcare professional for advice.

Find Dr Jonathan Kentley here. 

Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Jonathan Kentley

By donating to skin disease research, you are helping us to find treatments and cures for common conditions like rosacea, acne and psoriasis through to potential killers like melanoma skin cancer. Thank you.